Vestes’s theme for 2017 is labor safety is more important than money
“If labor is happy than you will be happy”
Four years has been passed by Tazreen Fashions fire in Dhaka Bangladesh. All of the garment workers were on an overtime shift to complete an urgent order when the fire alarm sounded, but managers ordered them to carry on working. As the smoke and fire spread through the building and workers eventually tried to escape, they found that iron grilles barred the windows and the collapsible gate was locked. None of the fire extinguishers appeared to have been used which suggests workers had not received fire safety training. 112 workers died and more than 200 were injured. The official who led the inquiry into the fire said
“Unpardonable negligence of the owner is responsible for the death of workers.”
After the Tazreen fire, factories were told to replace
collapsible gates and lockable doors with fire-proof doors so there was always
a safe exit point in the event of a fire. In the Bangladesh Accord’s initial
inspection of 1600 garment factories, it was found that over 90% had lockable,
collapsible gates. According to industry insiders around 40% of all operational
garment factories still have these gates, four years later.
A new report published that Dangerous Delays on Worker Safety found that of the 107 factories labelled “on track” by The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, 99 were still falling behind in one or more safety categories. In light of Li Edelkoort’s observation that brands are spreading themselves thin, it comes as little surprise to find that brands in the Alliance, which includes brands such as Walmart, Target, Gap inc, VF Corporation (which owns Lee, Wrangler, The North Face, Vans, Timberland and others and has just published its factory lists) have yet to put in place the life-saving safety changes they pledged following the Rana Plaza disaster, which occurred five months after the Tazreen fire. 62% of factories still lack viable fire exits, 62% do not have a properly functioning fire alarm system and 47% have major, uncorrected structural problems. Deadlines for these safety measures to be implemented were supposed to be 2014/15 but have now been moved to 2018, the end of the 5 year period over which the Alliance extends.
Are brands and factory owners really so concerned with the bottom line that they cannot afford to prioritize the installation of something so basic to worker safety as a fire-proof door and the removal of locks from existing doors?
Since the Tazreen fire and Rana Plaza disaster, human rights issues are certainly more visible than ever before and there is ongoing pressure on global fashion brands to become more transparent. Companies are now being held to a higher standard and they are cognizant of this change.
However, the harsh reality is that basic health and safety measures still do not exist for millions of people who make our clothes and accessories.
“There is nothing more important than performance, and fashion brands have to perform because of this greed – not a percent or two per year, but at least 10 percent quarterly, even when we’re talking about billion-dollar businesses. There is no end to the greed, so the brands are spreading themselves thin”
said trend forecaster Li Edelkoort in an interview with Deutsche Welle.
Brands and factory owners have to realise and take measures regarding labor safety.